The crispness of the crease in thickened straight-leg trousers directly impacts the overall sophistication and wearing experience. Their production requires comprehensive control over multiple dimensions, including fabric selection, cutting techniques, sewing skills, and finishing processes, to ensure the crease remains crisp and resistant to deformation over long-term wear.
Fabric is the foundation of a crisp crease. Thickened straight-leg trousers should use high-density, wrinkle-resistant fabrics, such as heavyweight denim, flannel, or blended wool. These fabrics have a tight fiber structure and high yarn twist, effectively resisting yarn slippage caused by external forces, thus reducing the risk of crease distortion. For example, heavyweight denim fabrics of 12oz or more, due to their thickness and resilience, maintain the trousers' shape without becoming too thin and collapsing. Furthermore, the balance of warp and weft tension is crucial. Excessive warp tension can cause weft contraction due to leg movement, leading to crease distortion; conversely, insufficient warp tension can result in a loss of crispness.
Precise cutting is a prerequisite for a crisp crease. The cut of thickened straight-leg trousers must strictly adhere to ergonomic design, ensuring that the side seam angles of the front and back panels match the natural curves of the leg. During cutting, the seam allowance width must be adjusted according to the fabric characteristics; for thicker fabrics, the seam allowance should be increased to 1.5-2 cm to enhance support at the seams. Simultaneously, the leg width must be uniform, and the gradual narrowing from the thigh to the hem must be precisely controlled to prevent the trouser line from shifting due to pattern deviations. For example, the leg width of standard thickened straight-leg trousers is typically no less than 17 cm, ensuring both freedom of movement and maintaining a straight crease.
The sewing process directly affects the stability of the trouser line. High-density stitches should be used, typically no less than 25 stitches per 10 cm, to ensure the seam is strong and not easily broken. For thicker fabrics, it is recommended to use thicker needles or double needles to enhance the load-bearing capacity of the seam. When sewing trouser creases, first iron out clear creases, then sew along the creases to ensure the seam aligns with the fabric fibers, reducing crease distortion caused by friction. Additionally, keep the fabric flat during sewing to prevent crease shifting due to pulling or wrinkles.
The finishing process is crucial for the crispness of the creases. After sewing, the creases should be fixed with high-temperature ironing, allowing the fabric fibers to develop a memory effect under heat. A professional trouser seam press machine should be used to ensure even pressure and a temperature controlled between 150-180℃, which will set the shape without damaging the fabric. For thicker fabrics, the number of ironing cycles or the ironing time can be increased to enhance the durability of the crease. Furthermore, a small amount of setting spray can be sprayed on the creases to further solidify the crispness.
The structural design of the waistband and crotch also indirectly affects the crease. A high-waisted design raises the waistline, allowing the trousers to drape naturally and reducing crease distortion caused by waist laxity. The curve of the back waist darts must precisely conform to the hip curve to prevent the pants from shifting back due to hip protrusion, thus avoiding deformation of the trouser crease. The crotch area requires three-dimensional tailoring to ensure the trousers remain relatively stationary with the legs during movement, reducing crease shifting due to friction.
Wearing and care habits are equally important. When washing, choose a gentle cycle to avoid vigorous rubbing that could deform the fabric. When drying, straighten the trouser legs and secure the hems with trouser clips to prevent sagging due to gravity. For long-term storage, it is recommended to lay the trousers flat or hang them to avoid folding, which can deepen creases. The crispness of thickened straight-leg trousers requires careful fabric selection, precise cutting, professional sewing, and finishing.
